How to adjust a sewing pattern to your body shape

New sewing project! You picked your pattern, carefully selected your size, checked the measurement chart, and cut out your pattern with enthusiasm.

Then comes the fitting.
The sleeve is a bit too long.
The waist doesn't land exactly in the right spot.
The garment is slightly looser or more fitted than expected.

Before you start questioning your whole project, know one thing: this is perfectly normal. Good thing you made a mock-up! You'll be able to adjust all that.
You did make a mock-up, right? 🤓

Patterns are created from standardized measurements, but no body shape is standard. That's why learning to adjust your sewing pattern is just as useful a skill as knowing how to sew that pattern in the first place.

Don't worry! Plenty of adjustments are a lot simpler than you might think.

Modify a pattern or choose a different size?

Before you grab your pencils and start cutting into your pattern, you need to answer an important question: is it just a few specific things that are off? Or is it just plain too big (or too small)?

Adjustments are meant to adapt a pattern to your body shape. They're not a substitute for choosing the right size in the first place.

If you need to, you can read my article on choosing your pattern size!

The most common adjustments

Adjusting length

2 people who wear the same size don't necessarily have the same height. So length adjustments are very common.

You might need to:

  • shorten a sleeve;
  • lengthen pants;
  • shorten a skirt;
  • lengthen a dress;
  • adjust the length of a bodice.

Most patterns include lines meant for making these changes without distorting the garment. Use them. They'll help you keep the original proportions of the design. Don't forget to modify all the pieces involved (the front AND the back 😉).

Adjusting width

The garment is almost perfect... except it's just a bit too tight. Or on the contrary, maybe it's got a bit too much ease.

Here, you want to keep the pattern's overall silhouette while improving comfort and fit. You can slightly adjust the width of the garment by distributing the adjustments evenly across the different pieces involved.

Adjusting specific areas

Even with very similar measurements, 2 people can need very different alterations. That's normal, weight distribution and muscle build are different for everyone.

It's fairly common for just one part of the garment to need correcting:

  • the shoulders;
  • the bust;
  • the waist;
  • the hips;
  • or the sleeves.

This kind of adjustment can be a bit more complex depending on your needs, which is why testing is always the best approach.

Why make a mock-up?

I know. Making a mock-up probably isn't the most exciting part of a sewing project. But this step can save you a ton of time.

A mock-up lets you:

  • check your modifications;
  • test the fit;
  • fix mistakes before cutting your final fabric;
  • better understand the pattern.

A few hours invested in a mock-up can save you a lot of frustration down the line.

Common mistakes when adjusting a pattern

Wanting to fix every problem at once

One step at a time. When a garment doesn't fit perfectly, it can be tempting to modify several things at once. Unfortunately, that often makes it harder to figure out what's actually wrong.

Instead, work through your adjustments gradually to better understand the effect of each change.

Overlooking the pattern markings

A small change to one piece can affect several others.

Always take the time to check that the pieces still fit together properly. And make sure the notches are all still present on the new pattern pieces.

Forgetting seam allowances

Depending on the modifications made and the method used, you might need to re-mark your seam allowances after your adjustments.

Take a few minutes to check them before cutting your fabric.

Comparing your body to the pattern's measurements

Patterns are designed from standards. Your goal isn't to adapt your body to the pattern. It's the pattern that needs to be adapted to you.

Do you need to adjust every pattern?

Not necessarily.

Garments with a lot of ease generally need fewer adjustments. But garments worn very close to the body are a bit less forgiving.

Over time, you might notice you tend to make the same adjustments again and again.

For example:

  • consistently shortening sleeves;
  • adjusting the shoulders;
  • adding ease to the bust;
  • slightly modifying the waist.

Once you know which adjustments work for you, they'll become a lot quicker to make.

Fitting is a skill you learn

Nobody masters pattern adjustments on the first try.

Like any sewing technique, it takes a bit of practice and experimentation. Every project will help you better understand your body shape, the patterns you use, and the modifications that work for you.

And I promise, once you start getting garments that fit exactly the way you want, the time invested is really worth it.

If you want to go further and customize your pattern, I've got a few tips for you

And if you want to stay in the loop on new products, promos, and new articles to help you with your creative projects, join The Harbour!

In the meantime,
Happy sewing! Happy crafting! 🤓✂🐙

Back to Making