4 fabric painting techniques for your cosplay and LARP costumes

Adding patterns to your fabrics... it's the kind of thing you'll probably want to do eventually. It's pretty inevitable in the world of cosplay making: the question marks on the Riddler's suit, the R on Team Rocket's shirts, the various designs on Link's tunic…

Same goes for LARP costumes: guild symbols on tabards, noble house crests, repeated patterns along tunic borders. The custom patterns you might want to recreate on your costume are endless!

And depending on the costume, the look you're going for (and the time you've got), you've got a whole plethora (yes, plethora – didn't expect to read that word today, right?) of ways to add patterns to your fabric.

The most classic method is paint. So let's go over the 4 most commonly used techniques together.

Psst! If you want to see other techniques for adding designs to your costumes (appliqué, embroidery, cutouts),
I'd recommend my article on adding patterns to fabric.


The basic materials

Before getting into techniques, a few words about materials, since it applies to pretty much all the options. While each technique has its own specifics, you'll at least need a few things to get started...

Paint

It's true that there's paint made specifically for fabric. But honestly, I just use acrylic. It's not too expensive, and it's easy to use. I really like the Folk Art brand. It's an affordable paint brand with good pigment. And there's a huge range of colors, plus metallic and glittery options, and even a Color Shift line with two-tone shimmer effects (which is really cool).

There are other really useful types of paint out there (like spray paint) but with acrylic paint, you can get pretty far on your own.

Fabric medium

It's not always essential, but it helps give your paint a softer texture (and therefore your fabric too). With medium, your paint spreads better. If it spreads better, you apply it thinner. And if you apply it thinner, there's less chance it'll crack.

Brushes

I like brushes with somewhat soft bristles, but not too soft. That said, very stiff, short-bristled brushes are handy for stippling onto your fabric. What matters is that your brush is good enough quality that it doesn't shed bristles. There's nothing worse than trying to fish a bristle out of wet paint (and smudging your work in the process).

Depending on the technique you use, you'll eventually end up with brushes suited to your way of working. You might even find other handy tools: sponges, paint rollers, etc.


1- Stencil painting

This is my favorite technique. A particularly great option if you've got a simple pattern to repeat.

There are all kinds of ways to make stencils. Personally, I like using clear adhesive vinyl. You know, the contact paper we used to cover our books with in school (why did they make us do that? the book gets ruined anyway... but I digress).

What I love about adhesive vinyl is that it sticks to my fabric (so it doesn't shift while I'm painting), but it also peels off really easily (without damaging anything). And the advantage of using clear vinyl (besides the fact that it's usually the easiest to find and the cheapest) is that you can clearly see what's happening on your fabric around it. So you can make reference marks on the vinyl to make sure you position your stencil correctly.

If I'm doing a simple pattern, I usually cut my stencil with an x-acto knife. For more complex ones, I use my cutting machine.

If you want to learn more about this little machine,
I'd recommend my article on digital cutting machines.

Don't worry, even without a cutting machine, everything can be done with an x-acto knife (it'll just take longer).

You can also just use regular paper. That works too, you know. But you can't see through it, and you'll need something to hold your stencil firmly in place. I'd highly recommend temporary spray adhesive. Temporary so it doesn't leave residue. Spray so you're sure to cover everything evenly (without damaging your stencil).

Once your stencil is ready, you've got 2 main options. You can apply spray paint (super fast, but less control). Or you can apply acrylic paint with a brush or sponge (slower, but more control over your application).

fabric painting: stencil

The upside:

  • Consistency in your patterns.

The downside:

  • Limited in how complex a pattern you can make if you only have basic tools.

2- Stamp painting

The stamping method, like stenciling, is a great way to repeat a pattern over a large area.

You've probably made potato stamps as a kid… It's the same technique. But I promise I've got simpler (and less perishable) options than carving up a vegetable.

I use EVA foam, and it works really well. With 2mm foam, you can cut out whatever pattern you want to recreate. Then just glue your pieces onto a piece of 10mm EVA foam (or anything that won't warp — sturdy cardboard or even a small wood board).

The advantage over stenciling is that you can create fairly complex patterns that'll be easy to repeat across your costume. All the parts of your pattern are attached to the base, so it's easier to manage (whereas a stencil could get damaged between repetitions).

That said, there are a few things worth knowing if you're making stamps:

You need to make sure you have the right amount of paint on your stamp. Too much paint, and it'll bleed over the edges. Not enough, and you'll get gaps in your pattern… That said, that might be exactly what you want. Stamping gives a very specific texture. That could be the effect you're going for. If not, you can always touch up your pattern with a brush afterward.

And if you've got an asymmetrical design, make sure to prepare a mirrored version of your pattern. Because you'll be flipping your design over to stamp it…

fabric painting - stamp

(a creation by my friend Sonia)

The upside:

  • Easier to reuse a complex pattern

The downside:

  • Less control over the texture's appearance

3- Freehand painting

Freehand painting is a really great option if you've got an organic or highly detailed pattern. It's a technique I'd recommend less for beginners, but it can really create awesome results if you're comfortable with a brush.

It's the technique that gives you the most freedom. You can create exactly the pattern you're picturing, add shadows, light effects, or details that would be impossible to achieve with a stencil.

fabric painting: freehand

 

The upside:

  • Endless options for patterns and styles

The downside:

  • Harder to master... you need to be comfortable with your brushwork

4- Airbrush painting

I'd suggest airbrushing for more abstract effects. If you've got something with a gradient to do, it's really an excellent option.

It's also an excellent tool for adding shadows and highlights to a piece. I actually talk about it in my article on weathering.

Yes, it's an investment. The airbrush and its compressor, specialized paint, cleaning supplies… it's generally not the kind of thing you decide to try on a whim.

But if you like spray paint, you'll probably like airbrushing: the application is super clean, gradients always come out perfect, and you've got way more color options than with spray paints (on top of it being way more eco-friendly than buying a bunch of cans).

It does take some practice to get the hang of the equipment. But it really gives beautiful results.

fabric painting - airbrush

The upside:

  • Gradients come out flawless every time

The downside:

  • The basic equipment is pretty expensive

bonus option. . . fabric markers

I'm including fabric markers under paint, because it works on a similar principle… but it's markers.

If you're looking to do a freehand pattern but you're not comfortable with a brush, fabric markers can be a great solution. Lettering, for example. Because writing with a paintbrush isn't easy (unless you're a master of Chinese calligraphy).

Careful though, there are 2 important details to keep in mind:

  • It's better to work on a light-colored background.

It's ink, not paint. So you won't be able to make colors show up on a dark background. White is still your best bet, but it also works on light-colored fabrics. Still, take the time to check how your marker colors actually turn out (it can vary depending on the background).

  • Watch out for bleeding.

To a greater or lesser degree, your fabric is going to absorb the ink from your marker. Do a test before diving in to see what happens. Sometimes it's barely noticeable. But sometimes it blurs your pattern really badly. And that might not be what you want.

And when I say "do a test," I don't mean draw a line on your fabric and immediately go "great, that looks fine." Let your fabric sit for a bit. Sometimes it soaks in very slowly. I've been caught out by this more than once. Everything looked great… and oops, an hour later, the pattern's completely blurred.

fabric painting

The upside:

  • How easy it is

The downside:

  • The color range isn't always huge

Setting Your Paint

It's a step people often forget, but if you want your work to stay beautiful for a long time, setting your paint is super important. Whether you're using fabric paint, acrylic paint, or fabric markers, if you want your creation to survive washing, heat-set the paint.

First, let your paint dry completely. Not just dry to the touch, but fully cured. This generally takes 24 to 48 hours (check your paint bottle, it's probably written there).

Next, press your painted area with an iron. Make sure to use a heat setting that's appropriate for your fabric and place a cloth between your paint and the iron (this helps protect your fabric, your paint, and the soleplate of your iron).

Psst! You can also put your piece in the dryer on high heat for 30 minutes, but I prefer using an iron, which gives you more control and is easier to adjust depending on the material.

Once it's set, your paint will be much more resistant to washing. And for care: always wash your painted piece in cold water, inside out, on a delicate cycle. This will really help keep it looking great for a long time.

You can easily mix techniques to get even more fancy results: stenciling for structure, freehand painting for details, airbrushing for shadows.

If you want to take your costume customization even further, I also have a complete article on other ways to add designs to fabric: appliqués, embroidery, heat-transfer vinyl, and cutouts.

And for a few stencil templates to use, my selection is right here!


And if you want to stay up to date with new releases, promos, and new articles to help you with your creative projects, join the Escale!

In the meantime,
Happy sewing! Happy crafting! 🤓✂🐙