Understanding fabrics to make the right choices for your costumes

For a lot of cosplays, fabric is the foundation, right?

Even if you're doing more of an armor cosplay. You'll probably still need (at least a little) fabric for something (a cape, a scarf, a belt…).

And really understanding fabrics is pretty much a must, in my opinion. It'll help you:

• Choose a fabric suited to your pattern and avoid buying something that just doesn't work.
• Find alternatives more easily when you can't get your hands on the fabric recommended for a pattern.
• Better understand how a fabric behaves, so you get a result that really drapes the way you want.
• Make your online shopping, your sewing, and your costume's upkeep easier.

Fabric names, the difference between woven and knit, the advantages of different fibers, their characteristics… all of that is essential for making the right fabric choices for your sewing projects.

So follow me, let's break it all down!

The different types of textile fibers

First off, you've got fibers: natural, synthetic, and man-made. There's no good or bad fiber. It really depends on what you're trying to do.

Natural fibers

Natural fibers tend to breathe better, while synthetic fibers, which are essentially plastic, breathe about as well as your fake office plant. That said, they're often much more affordable and really versatile.

You've got natural plant fibers (like cotton and linen), which are super lightweight but wrinkle easily. And you've got natural animal fibers (like wool), which have great thermal properties (they keep you warm in winter, but also cool in summer). On the other hand, they cost a pretty penny.

Synthetic fibers

Synthetic fibers may be plastic-based, but they still have their perks. Polyester and nylon are more durable fibers that barely wrinkle and hold their color really well through washing (unlike your black cotton t-shirt that's now kind of a faded dark gray...).

Man-made fibers

These fibers are sort of a middle ground, made from natural materials (bamboo or birch fiber, or acetic acid) that are then processed. So not fully natural, but not synthetic either.

Cellulosic chemical fibers (like acetate and viscose) are generally less durable, but really affordable.

Either way, manufactured fibers are often blended with natural fibers to cut costs, improve durability, reduce wrinkling, and so on.

So it's important to keep these different characteristics in mind. They'll mostly affect the comfort and upkeep of your project.

How fabric is constructed

The fiber is spun (to make thread), and then the threads are put together to create fabric. There are mainly 4 construction methods: woven, knit, open-work, and non-woven.

Woven fabrics

Woven is the most common: weft threads crossing over warp threads. There are different ways to cross the threads, which is called the fabric's weave. That's what gives different effects from one fabric to another.

Woven fabrics are generally the sturdiest. It's the kind of fabric you want for a fairly structured project.

Knit fabrics

Knit is like your scarf or sweater made by grandma, but (usually) finer… The main characteristic of knits is that they stretch.

But watch out: not all stretchy fabrics are necessarily knits. Spandex fiber also gives fabrics stretch. Your super comfy stretch jeans: woven. Your t-shirt: knit. If you look really closely at the fabric, you'll see the difference.

It's important to know this, because it doesn't give the same drape to your fabric. And that changes a lot about the final look of your project.

Open-work fabrics

Open-work fabrics are constructed to be more or less full of holes. We're generally talking about lace, but also tulle.

Generally, these aren't very sturdy fabrics. We're in fairly delicate territory here. And often decorative.

Non-woven fabrics

Non-wovens are the only fabrics that aren't built from threads at all, but rather straight from fiber that gets essentially matted together to create the fabric.

Again, not super sturdy as a material. But non-wovens still have plenty of uses. You'll find them as interfacing, to add bulk, insulation, or other properties.

Understanding fabrics

Ultimately, it's the combination of fiber type, thread type, and construction method that gives you a fabric's name. But rather than just throwing a list of names at you to memorize, I'm going to try to show you the logic behind it. Because once you get it, fabric names stop being jargon and start being landmarks.

I'll group them by construction method (to tie in directly with what we just covered).

A few examples on the woven side

📌 Twill weaves (denim, twill) have that famous visible diagonal in the weave (like on your jeans). That structure is exactly what makes them especially resistant to wear — exactly what you want for pieces that are going to get a lot of friction (pants, a belt, anything that's going to see a lot of action during your LARP).

📌 Voile, chiffon, and organza are also woven, but with threads so fine and a weave so loose that the result is sheer. It's not holes like in lace, just an ultra-lightweight weave. This is your go-to for anything that needs to look airy: petticoats, fairy wings, layering effects...

📌 Satin, charmeuse, and silk crepe de chine are all woven in a satin weave (a specific way of crossing the threads that creates that famous glossy effect). What sets them apart from each other is mainly thickness and the fiber used. This is your go-to choice for a piece that needs to look rich and move well: a ball gown, a royal costume, a luxurious lining, etc.

📌 Taffeta and shantung are also woven, but with a completely different drape than satins. We're talking about a crisp drape here. Taffeta really holds its shape, perfect for full skirts or any piece that needs volume without extra support. Shantung, meanwhile, has an irregular texture on top of that (little slubs in the thread) that gives it a more organic sheen, less perfect than taffeta. It's ideal for a noble or royal costume that wants a rich look without falling into that overly smooth style.

📌 Still on the woven side, there's flannel (wool) and flannelette (cotton). These fabrics are brushed to make them softer, but also warmer. Good to know for winter LARP costumes.

A few examples on the knit side

📌 Jersey is the most common knit, the one used in most of your t-shirts. Its density and the fiber used make its look vary from super light to thicker, but its basic characteristic stays the same: stretchy and comfortable. If you need a fabric that follows the body without restricting movement (a leotard, for example), it's often your starting point.

📌 Fleece is also a knit, but brushed to make it thicker and warmer, kind of like flannel and flannelette. Really useful for cozy linings.

The case of non-wovens

📌 Felt is the only one in the bunch that isn't really "built" from threads. Less sturdy, but super versatile: it's especially handy for adding bulk (thickness) or even for appliqué work (because it doesn't fray).

Psst! Your wool coat, by the way, isn't felt. It's wool that's been felted. A similar look, but two different processes, and two different results.

How to choose the right fabric

Beyond following the recommendations listed on the pattern, there are a few steps to follow to choose your fabric well.

What drape do I want for my garment?

Take the time to ask yourself a few questions about the drape and final look of the costume. If you want something structured that holds its shape (a coat, a skirt that doesn't move around too much), go for a woven fabric. If you want movement, drape, something that follows the body, you'll probably want to turn to knits or satin-weave fabrics instead.

What kind of event is it for?

You also need to understand the context. You wouldn't pick the same fabric for a coat as for a swimsuit, right? But beyond that, a tunic meant for a 3-day summer LARP in full sun isn't the same as one for an afternoon at a small, air-conditioned indoor convention. In the first case, your fiber's breathability becomes a lot more important than just the look.

How am I going to care for it?

This is a small detail you really shouldn't overlook! For a costume you're going to wash after every LARP (after getting hot, rolling around in the mud, and more), it's not the time to pick a delicate silk that needs dry cleaning. Save the fussier fibers for pieces that get displayed more than worn.

Do I know how to sew it?

A beautiful fabric is great, but a fabric you're actually able to sew is even better. I'm really pro building-your-confidence, and I think we should never hold ourselves back out of fear of trying something new… but let's be honest, some fabrics are harder to sew than others. Velvet slides and clings at the same time, it's a bit of a mess. Charmeuse, chiffon, silk crepe de chine shift if you so much as look at them wrong. Jerseys are trickier to sew because of how stretchy they are.

Be honest with yourself. If you're a beginner, start with fabrics that are a bit easier to sew. Then gradually work your way up in difficulty. It'll be a lot more rewarding than crashing and burning on your very first project because you decided to use an impossible fabric.

(When in doubt, ask the staff in-store for advice, they'll be able to guide you on what's easier or harder to work with.)

The right fabric for the right project

To give you a more concrete idea, here are a few combos that might come up often in your projects:

It's not an exhaustive list, but it should give you a good starting point for your next fabric searches.

Pitfalls to avoid when shopping online

Because like I said at the start of the article: shopping without being able to touch the fabric isn't easy. A few tips to avoid unpleasant surprises:

📌 Take the time to look at the pattern's recommendations before starting your search. Even though it's not a set of absolute rules, it's a good starting point.

📌 Always check the fabric weight (often listed in g/m² or oz). It's the most reliable info to give you an idea of the drape and thickness, way more than the photo.

📌 Take the time to look at the fiber content. As we've seen, it tells you a lot about a fabric's comfort and care requirements.

📌 Avoid buying a fabric just for its color or pattern. A fabric is a whole set of characteristics. Take the time to ask yourself if what you've found is really right for your project. Sometimes a fabric with an off color, but with a comfortable fiber and a lot of richness in its texture, can be more suited to your cosplay than the fabric with the perfect color that just doesn't breathe.

📌 If you're torn between two options for a big project, order a swatch before buying your full quantity. Most shops offer them, and it costs a lot less than ruining 3 yards of the wrong fabric.

Bottom line: once you know what you're looking for (and why), choosing your fabric becomes a lot less intimidating.

And if you want to stay in the loop on new products, promos, and new articles to help you with your creative projects, join The Harbour!

In the meantime,
Happy sewing! Happy crafting! 🤓✂🐙