How to choose the right pattern size without making a mistake

You've found the perfect pattern, but one question remains: what size should you choose? Picking the right pattern size can feel a bit stressful when you're starting a sewing project… and yet, it remains a super important step.

A well-chosen pattern size can transform your whole experience: fewer alterations, more fun, and above all a garment that fits the way you pictured it from the start.

Follow along, I'll show you how to choose the right pattern size, how to properly read the measurement chart, and which pitfalls to avoid.

Why pattern size isn't necessarily the same as your clothing size

Nope, you can't just tell yourself: "I wear a small, I'll print the small." Because we all know a small from one brand is a medium from another… That's true for clothing brands. It's true for sewing patterns too.

Every designer works with their own size chart, and it's important to refer to that specific chart to make sure you pick the right size.

Taking your measurements correctly (the foundation of it all)

Before you even open your PDF pattern, take a few minutes to measure your body. This is really the step that changes everything.

The most important measurements are generally:

  • Bust circumference
  • Waist circumference
  • Hip circumference
Measure yourself with the tape lying flat, without pulling it tight, and ideally in front of a mirror.
You can read my article on taking measurements for more tips.

And above all… don't suck your stomach in 😄 (we want a comfortable garment, not torture).

Comparing your measurements to the pattern's size chart

Every pattern includes a size chart. That's the one, and the only one, that should guide your choice.

The body measurement chart

This is the one that will guide your decision.

  • Compare your measurements to the different sizes
  • Identify the ones that match yours best
  • Don't rely on a single measurement.

The finished garment measurement chart

Some patterns offer a finished garment measurement chart. It's not always included, but when it is, it can help you make a more informed decision.

Stuck between 2 sizes, how do you choose?

It's very possible you'll find yourself between 2 sizes, or that your measurements are spread across more than one size. That's normal, pattern measurements are standardized and we're not. Here are a few options available to you:

Option 1: choose the larger size

When in doubt, choose the larger size. It's often the simplest approach.

Either way, it's always a must to make a mock-up to check the fit, so you'll be able to make a few adjustments if needed.

Option 2: compare with the finished garment measurement chart

This is where that second chart becomes useful.

For example: let's say your measurements fall between 2 sizes. By looking at the finished garment measurements, you can decide whether to go with the size below or the size above. Generally speaking, I'd recommend going with the size above (and making a few adjustments if needed). But if the garment in question is meant to be loose-fitting, like the Jedi coat, I can guarantee the smaller size will work just fine (the ease on this garment is very, very generous! it's a huge coat, it won't be too small, don't worry!).

Another example: your bust and hip measurements match the chart, but your waist is a bit wider… By checking the finished garment measurements, you can see whether the garment's ease is generous enough for you to be comfortable at that size, or whether it's worth sizing up. For a garment with a fairly defined waist, like the Druid tunic, you might want to size up. But for a straighter-cut garment, like the Viking tunic, the waist measurement matters less.

Option 3: grade between sizes

Combining 2 sizes is a really practical solution for getting the best fit.

If you feel like your measurements are all over the place, and you're thinking: "I should use size M for the top and size XL for the bottom..." Well, do exactly that! You can retrace your pattern using one size for the top of the pieces and another size for the bottom. That's the magic of patterns: you have access to several sizes. Use them.

Test before you cut

If you want to avoid unpleasant surprises, make a mock-up. I'll say it again for the people in the back who might have missed it. Make. A. Mock-up. 😉

A test, a prototype, a mock-up... it's all the same thing. It lets you check the pattern's shapes, measurements, and proportions. And adjust the design if needed. I know, it's a step that can feel long… but it could save your entire project.

*The case of downloadable PDF patterns

With downloadable patterns, you have a huge advantage: flexibility. Since you're working with a digital file, you can:

  • print a different size if your first choice doesn't work out;
  • make modifications without losing your original pattern;
  • print only your size to make the pattern easier to read*.

*This option isn't available on ALL digital patterns, but it's becoming a more and more common standard. My pattern files are always split into layers. And you can hide the sizes you don't need when printing. It's super handy and saves a lot of headaches.

Remember: the right size is the one that respects your body

Choosing the right pattern size isn't about fitting into a box. It's about setting your ego aside and understanding how your body interacts with the garment you're making.

The whole point of sewing your own costume is being able to create something that matches your body shape. Take advantage of this opportunity to make sure your fit is flawless!

Want tips on adjusting a pattern to your body shape?
I've got an article for you!

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In the meantime,
Happy sewing! Happy crafting! 🤓✂🐙

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